Diving In

Argyle Street from when the drive-bys were in Model-T's.

To me, there are few places on Argyle that truly embody the spirit of Uptown quite like one of my favorite greasy spoons- Benny's Grill. Run by “Judy” and “Benny,” (mostly Judy) a Vietnamese immigrant couple, this tiny dive is all that remains of what was apparently once an extensive restaurant heralding from the Jazz Era, when Uptown was the entertainment center of the city and Al Capone ran the world of organized crime from The Green Mill jazz club. The fare is modest but eclectic- burgers, fries, fluffy pancakes, coffee served hot and strong... and if that's not your fancy, there's always the fried rice that you can wash down with a diet Coke.

The patrons are regulars- retirees, hood rats, vagrants and die-hard lovers of an amazing fried pork chop breakfast. Judy serves it up with a smile or a dishes it out with a smackdown- no hustle is tolerated and the rude are often sent packing. But if you behave yourself, and come in on the right day, you get to meet the kinds of characters who make this neighborhood unique from the safe harbor of Judy's patience, or simply enjoy a good meal in peace.

The food is mostly prepared on a griddle that seasons everything that touches it in the way only a well used, old griddle can. If you don't know what I'm talking about- invest a few years of cooking in a good cast-iron skillet and you'll figure it out. I promise you'll thank me later.

There are dozens of not-to-be missed diner delicacies on the menu, but on my latest visit I had a craving for a patty melt and fries. Rye bread, juicy beef, grilled onions and a slice of good old American cheese served alongside the perfect fries- crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, not too greasy or overcooked. And yes, it was 4 in the afternoon, but if you can't go to a dive diner and have a solid cup of coffee, why go?

What, you were expecting
fancy plating?

Now this is a burger.

My partner in crime went with the staple Benny's burger. Nothing special or out of the ordinary, no truffle oil, foie gras or secret ingredients. This is simplicity at its best; beef, tomato, onion, cheese, condiments... All the essentials, none of the scmaltz- as a good burger should be. It's something we forget in a world of Kuma's Corners, M Burgers and fast food chains.

I could go on and wax nostalgic for my love of this place (I once made t-shirts) and how these often overlooked mom-and-pop dive diners are part of our American dining heritage and should be held in a certain place of reverence in our minds. Well, I guess I just did that. But my point is, for all the exotic and fancy food out there these days, sometimes it's good to explore the understated and basic- you'd be surprised what you discover.

Benny's Grill

1005 W. Argyle St., Chicago, IL 60640